Here is a screen grab of the existing file -
The changes from Wilba’s original are limited to -
I am not familiar with the LPC17 core - if further changes are required, then the files will be edited to accommodate.
I made a new thread where we can discuss the new backpanel design so this thread can stay on topic:
http://discourse.midibox.org/t/topic/18408
I believe the new back panel will take some pages.
Status update: we have 10 potential case buyers. The bulk can happen in theory.
Oh, I see. You’re using the panel with all the work on the back.. You do realize that almost triples the price? You can do counter sunk through holes for the standoffs and and no counter bore for the displays and you’ll be back where I am price wise.
Can you explain a little more what you mean by this? I don’t understand what the difference is between the two designs, what makes the one under consideration more expensive, and what the cheaper design alternative is. I don’t know what “all the work on the back” means.
It means that the shop has to (manually) turn around the panel, re-adjust it, and then do some machining on the backside. You add manual work for them, you have to pay them…
Here are two photos to illustrate the above -
First, a panel with the rear milled for the screen, and also recesses for hex-spacers (wilba originally specified threaded blinds) -
Again, this is the *rear* of the panel.
Next is a photo of a panel with no milling on the rear. The pcb is mounted with bolts from the front of the panel. This is a much stronger, simpler, cheaper way of producing the panel, but it does mean that you see the bolt heads (in this case, A2 stainless allen cap heads) -
For my own, personal, build (where machine time is not really a consideration!) i will use the latter mounting, as i think it is better, but, again, not everyone likes to see the bolt heads.
Looks good, the price is probably unbeatable, too.
http://discourse.midibox.org/t/topic/18375
Also the hole for the data wheel should be 25mm wide, so the DK45 from Albs can fit, too. The original 10mm are too small:
not everyone likes to see the bolt heads.
I don’t mind seeing the bolt heads.
I don’t mind seeing the bolt heads.
why not use counter sunk flat head screws. Those will be flush with the panel and you’re still doing all the work on the front of the panel
why not use counter sunk flat head screws. Those will be flush with the panel and you’re still doing all the work on the front of the panel
In my personal opinion, i think counter sunk often look much worse. They are ok if you have the screw in your hand, and you gently take out more and more metal, and keep checking as you go, but, for any other job, through panel work, the screw either sits proud, or the hole is a fraction too large, and you get that silver ‘halo’ around the screw head.
Of course, things should be perfect, and i know there are DIN specs etc., but, in reality, ive seen so many countersunk screws with the ‘halo’ around them, and, to me, it looks like an error. I think the only perfect ones ive seen are ones done by hand, with the screw present to match when making the hole.
Again, it is only my opinion. For my own works, i generally always go for the stainless steel allen cap bolts. I like the look of them! : )
Is this what you were asking about the rear panel? Im still not 100% sure that i understand! : )
I have a case from one of the earlier group-buys - i took measurements from the actual case itself, rather than the datasheets, and cut both the top and the rear panels to fit the case.
Indeed, i cut a test panel, and then made further adjustments of fractions of a millimeter, so that, not only did the panel fit, it fits perfectly! : )
Assuming the cases from this group-buy are of exactly the same dimensions as the ones from the last group buy (im sure they will be - they will be cut from the same code, im sure!) then any panels that i cut for them will, again, fit perfectly.
Again, i am not 100% sure i understand, but, even if i do not understand, i can assure you that there will be no falling off the case! : )
(in short - there is nothing to worry about ; )
Indeed, i cut a test panel, and then made further adjustments of fractions of a millimeter, so that, not only did the panel fit, it fits perfectly! : )
Again, i am not 100% sure i understand, but, even if i do not understand, i can assure you that there will be no falling off the case! : )
What I mean: what happens if your turn the case up side down? E.g. transporting it to a gig etc?
I don’t have a better word than slide or guide rail for it, I marked them red for you. I even don’t have a word in German for it 
Furthermore, I marked 2 recesses that aren’t necessary with SmashTV’s PCB.
What I mean: what happens if your turn the case up side down? E.g. transporting it to a gig etc?
I don’t have a better word than slide or guide rail for it, I marked them red for you. I even don’t have a word in German for it
Furthermore, I marked 2 recesses that aren’t necessary with SmashTV’s PCB.
Yep, the panels are fine. Shake the case as much as you like - nothing will fall off : )
The two holes - they were from earlier builds. The reason ive still cut them was to make the panel backward compatible, but i guess its probably time to stop now.
ps.
Even without locking into the ends of the case using the parts you are looking for a name of (tabs/protrusions/rails?) the panel should still be held by the top and bottom extrusions, shouldnt it? I will have to look again, but im sure the panels hold on all four edges - two fit with the extrusion, and two with the end plates.
But, again, either way, nothing falls off - really, dont worry! : )
Hi all!
I’m really interested in a front panel and a back panel, i’ve the “most discussed” case from the first batch so i do not need it.
I guess it’s a good idea to PM julianf or contact frontpanels.de.
Edit: Btw, the signup phase for the first batch has started, if someone wants a case this summer please sign up at: http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=seq4_aluminium_case_and_frontpanel_2014
I’m really looking forward to finally be able to order a standard mbseq case with some front panels so I can build one but I’m still not 100% clear on the front panel design choices. As a general overarching hypothetical guidance, I will tend to favor cheaper, simpler designs. But because I do not have enough extra time to go off and design my own front panel, I will wind up going with a bulk order that is likely to work.
All this to say that I have some mild sticker shock about the front panel cost, and to ask, is there still an opportunity to discuss the front panel design? Because for example, I would probably prefer no countersinking or counterboring on front screw holes, and I still don’t completely understand the purpose of the other extra work on the back, and how the benefits justify the cost.
Thanks for the patience of anyone who can help shed some light on these topics.
All this to say that I have some mild sticker shock about the front panel cost, and to ask, is there still an opportunity to discuss the front panel design? Because for example, I would probably prefer no countersinking or counterboring on front screw holes, and I still don’t completely understand the purpose of the other extra work on the back, and how the benefits justify the cost.
I think the best idea is to discuss this matter with Julianf. I’m not a manufacturer of panels, so I don’t have any influence on panel prices.
Update:
Got 8 case sign ups, need 2 additional cases for this bulk to get started.
I won’t supply any frontpanels, since only fundamental took interest. Please PM Julianf or visit frontpanels.de for your individual frontpanel.
Sign up here if you want a case: http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=seq4_aluminium_case_and_frontpanel_2014
Just a quick post -
I have been working on some panels for these cases. I should have a couple of sets complete by tomorrow evening (30th july) with more to follow.
Cool, looking forward to see them.
