Wish to make an Ableton Live foot controller... have some questions

Design Concepts
1

Making my own custom controller has really fascinated me.  I just stumbled across the ucapps.de site last week.  I’ve been reading like crazy.  I have some questions about what I’ve read so far.

My wish is to make an Ableton Live foot controller for live playing because I’m a guitar player that likes to run loops.  Right now I’m currently assigning keys on my laptop keyboard to trigger tracks.  It’s near impossible for me to take my hands off the guitar real quick to switch tracks when needed.  So I need to make a controller that does this, but I’m a newbie that really doesn’t know if I’m understanding this all.  I’d like to make a controller that has this…

  • 8 assignable buttons (to assign to tracks in ableton live so i can trigger tracks/loops in ableton live… basically like assigning keys on my laptop but using the foot control to trigger instead of the keyboard)
  • Banks - so I’m not limited to just 8 buttons
  • 2 more buttons - “bank up” and “bank down”
  • 10 LED’s that are that are on full time - right underneath the buttons  (i’ll be playing in low light environments)
  • LCD so I know what bank I’m on

Now, I have an idea about how to put this all together, but I’m not sure if I got it all right.  Would I base this design on the midibox64?  Would I need the following modules?

  • 1 core module
  • 1 DIN module
  • 1 DOUT module
  • 1 bank stick

Would those modules allow me to build this controller? 

If anyone can offer tips on how to pursue making this controller it would be really appreciated.  I don’t think it’s that complex, but then again maybe I’m just way over my head!  :o  I just wonder if I’m thinking along the right lines. 

Thanks for any help you can give.  :slight_smile:

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Anyone know if I’m understanding correctly? 

3

Keyz,

Sounds almost exactly like what Guatamaham was just asking about. ( - take the elevator up one post and turn to your right)

If your looped events continue to play after the triggering, the “clip to MIDI” feature he found should keep the MB lights on at the correct times for you.

The module config. you describe should be more than enough (up to 32 buttons/lights per D.In/D.Out board). Someone in the know may even be able to edit the app, to get some of what you need directly from core, bypassing the shift register stuff, since there may be a bunch of unused bank pins.

If you’re not an X-Man mutant or anything, I’m not sure how easily you could see that status display from a standing position. I think dakro69 on eBay had some extra large 2x16’s, but I don’t know how large, or whether they were even lighted.

Take Care,

George

PS— Man, we need that 7-Segment output. ;D

I’ll try to get my thing together and carry it to the studio tonight to start on some digit attempts, but mine may not be for the same parameters.   

4

Thanks, Jidis, for your comments!

Someone in the know may even be able to edit the app, to get some of what you need directly from core, bypassing the shift register stuff, since there may be a bunch of unused bank pins.

Could you elaborate on what you exactly mean?  Will there be extra pins or something I need to get rid of?

If you’re not an X-Man mutant or anything, I’m not sure how easily you could see that status display from a standing position. I think dakro69 on eBay had some extra large 2x16’s, but I don’t know how large, or whether they were even lighted.

I figured I could get a 2x16 LCD.  I have pretty good eyes so I’m not really worried.  I don’t think it’ll be something I will constantly be looking at since all I need it is to show me what bank I’m on. 

I can also make banks, right?  I’ll have eight assignable buttons.  Can I make 16 banks of eight assignable buttons?  Am I reading things correctly off the ucapps website?  I just want to make sure I’m understanding things correctly. 

So I’m guessing I order the modules (1 core, 1 DIN, 1 DOUT, 1 bank sitck) off of the smashtv website and then build them?  If I buy the kit does it come with instructions or a guide that shows you what I’m soldering where?  Is there anything on these websites that shows me how the modules are all wired together?

Sorry for all the questions.  I know some things will just be trial and error but I’d to at least get the right equipment to deal with.  ;D

Anymore suggestions would be greatly valued from anyone. 

5

Hey again,

The buttons, lights, and knobs actually connect to a small network of synchronized “merge” type chips, which carry the event signals for all those different parts to and from the core module, on a much smaller number of lines than would be required if all the parts were wired directly to it (nowhere near enough PIC pins for that). However, with a very small number of lines, it may be possible to use such a “direct connection” system, but someone here would need to verify and get the exact details on it. I’m guessing there may be a couple banks of pins you can use like that, but I do know that the pot/fader lines merely need some changes to a couple MIOS parameters in the application’s main source file to switch them to a direct connection (8 pots or less). There’s also an example PDF in the downloads section, with a diagram for connecting a weird, smaller number of pots directly to the core as mentioned.

If it’s easier for you, or you need one or two more than the direct thing will allow, I think you can always use one of the regular D.In,D.Out, or A.In modules with only 1,2,or3 of the chips installed on it (the chips handle 8 elements each). You’ll just need to be aware of the different termination requirements for each chain. Usually a pin on the last chip will need to be grounded, pulled to 5v, or left open. All of those signals will be available somewhere on the MBHP boards.

The whole MIOS/App thing is pretty deep and flexible, so depending on how far you wanted to get into it, or whether there was already some existing function or an edit by someone, there’s likely even a way to use some large LED bank indicators (not numeric LED’s), just from the regular D.Out pins, so you wouldn’t need the screen, and could see from up high. ** As many will often note here, the screen is pretty useful (or necessary) for making some edits and setting your box up initially, so try to have one on hand, even if just for temporary connection.**

The app edits and stuff are described pretty well on the uCApps site. You’ll just be finding a specific section in one of the application’s source files (plain text), where there will be a parameter setting and a brief description of what it does. You can directly edit the numeric value of the parameters listed there for your specific needs or configuration. Afterward you will run the freeware Microchip compiler (MPASM) to create a file with your program in it, which you will transfer to the MIDIBox. You can go grab some of the “skeleton” apps or the complete MB64 app from the downloads section and read through some of the parameter options to get an idea of what all that means :wink: (the file “main.asm” is likely where you’ll find everything you need). 

Sorry I can’t elaborate more, but it’s about 6AM, so I’m kind of groggy.

Good luck with it all!

George 

6

Thanks, again!  I’m learning a lot.  Thank you.  :smiley:

Really, all I think I need is 10 buttons (2 for bank up and down, 8 for assignable).  I don’t need any knobs or faders.  I think it’d probably be easier for me to stick with the DIN and DOUT modules.  I looked at the .pdf diagrams of hooking up 32 LEDs and hooking up 32 buttons on the ucapps website.  Is it as simple as running a wire from the button and soldering the other end of the wire to the DIN module? 

The reason I ask is because I’m seeing some people’s MidiBox’s and they have their buttons connected to another circuit board that then appears to be wired to the DIN module.  Is that just another way of doing things?  Since I’ll only have 10 buttons do I just wire them straight to the DIN module like the .pdf shows?

So your idea about the LED bank indicators… do you mean having one LED that represents each bank?  Am I understanding you correctly?  That’s a neat idea.  That might make things easier to recognize.  It sounds like I’ll probably still want an LCD for any edits.  I can always keep that inside of the enclosure. 

It sounds like the software side of it will be really flexible.  I think I’ll go download the app right now. 

Anymore suggestions and input is welcomed.  Thanks so far.  :slight_smile: