Questions from a first-time midiboxer

MIDIbox SID
1

Hello, i just signed up to the forums, and i plan to work on making a Midibox SID for a school project this summer. It is a graduation requirement for me learn how to do something new over the summer, document it, write a research paper on something related to it, do a presentation, etc. I’m not freaking out about that, but since there is a grade involved, I have a couple of questions.

Firstly - I have 4 SIDs, 3 of which are 6581s, and the other one is a 8580. How do you suggest i handle this odd combination? all mono outputs, two 6581s with stereo effects, one 6581 without, and the 8580 also without? Would it sound really bad if i had two stereo outs, and the chips didn’t quite match in sound?

Secondly - How far away are you guys from finishing V2? I have a fear of being halfway through the SID walkthrough and then having it change on me. Should I print out all the website? For example, if i buy a PIC18F4685 instead of a PIC18F452, are there any repercussions that i should plan to avoid?

I should start ordering parts soon. Any other advice for a first-timer would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!  ;D

2

Until V2 is released, your only option is mono channels anyway.

There is a V1 release that uses the PIC18F4685 so you can get those PICs now if you want.

You will have no problems building a MB-SID V1 with PCBs, but if you have limited time, just build a single Core/SID… a multi-SID setup is possible but hard to test without a minimal “step B” control surface.

3

Honesty: You’re mad if you start a graded project based on v2, it’s not done yet, it might change as it has already, and it will be ready when TK is done with it, and of course there is a chance, however slim, that it might not be done in time -meaning you will get a big fat F.

Do an FM  instead :wink:

My 2c. See my current signature for more info hehehehe

4

Until V2 is released, your only option is mono channels anyway.

I thought there was a way to make a pair of SIDs stereo in V1. It said it was lossy, but I don’t think it would degrade sound quality too much.

There is a V1 release that uses the PIC18F4685 so you can get those PICs now if you want.

That’s good. I didn’t want to get into rewriting code fot it to work.

You will have no problems building a MB-SID V1 with PCBs, but if you have limited time, just build a single Core/SID… a multi-SID setup is possible but hard to test without a minimal “step B” control surface.

I was planning on going all the way to a Step C anyway. Would the Step B be considerably harder than building a single Core/SID module? I thought it was just building 4 Core and 4 SIDs pcbs, and then hooking them up with a couple of wires. Then, step C would just be adding knobs and buttons.

Honesty: You’re mad if you start a graded project based on v2, it’s not done yet, it might change as it has already, and it will be ready when TK is done with it, and of course there is a chance, however slim, that it might not be done in time -meaning you will get a big fat F.

I didn’t mean to rush TK or anything. I’m building a V1 SID while trying to futureproof as much as possible. I was just asking if there was anything I could/should do besides buying the more expensive PIC18F4685 to help with the transition between V1 to V2. On the walkthrough, it says TK won’t change his front panel anymore. I’m assuming this means he won’t mess around with the internal hardware, either. Or if he does, it should be backwards compatible to the extent of just switching out an older PIC for a newer one. Besides that, however, i didn’t read about anything else that is reccomended for a V2 sid, hardware-wise. Just making sure that i didn’t miss anything.

Do an FM  instead :wink:

The problem is that i don’t have an FM chip, while i do have 4 SIDs. Plus, the FM looks insanely more hard to build.

5

I didn’t mean to rush TK or anything. I’m building a V1 SID while trying to futureproof as much as possible.

Oh I know :slight_smile:

On the walkthrough, it says TK won’t change his front panel anymore. I’m assuming this means he won’t mess around with the internal hardware, either.

Or if he does, it should be backwards compatible to the extent of just switching out an older PIC for a newer one.

You know what they say about ass-u-me :wink: TK won’t be changing his panel cause they cost a lot, but the internal hardware has changed. It’s primarily a PIC-swap (which you don’t need to worry about, just use v1.74685) but there have been minor wiring alterations to support the new PIC’s CAN buss.

I would be surprised to see many more changes…

6

You know what they say about ass-u-me :wink:

which is exactly why i chose that word. :stuck_out_tongue:

TK won’t be changing his panel cause they cost a lot, but the internal hardware has changed. It’s primarily a PIC-swap (which you don’t need to worry about, just use v1.74685) but there have been minor wiring alterations to support the new PIC’s CAN buss.

That’s not a problem. I wouldn’t mind disconnecting and connecting things, but as far as buying 4 more core modules or anything like that, i might be opposed to it. Just making sure that this was not the case.

Also, i have a question for the front panel. I don’t think i can shell out $200 for the custom-made anodized aluminum panel from frontpanelexpress.com, which was reccomended for US people by someone in the forums. I have a sheet of aluninum, and i was wondering what would happen if i bought a transparent decal with all the control labels, instead of having it etched in the aluminum. Has anybody else tried that? I don’t know how tacky it might look, but i can get it for about $30CAN at sparetimehobbies.com.

Any other low-cost suggestions about the control surface would be appreciated. I guess i could really just print it out on a sheet of white paper, stick it on a piece of cardboard, and then glue it to the top of the C64 case, but i think i would offend some people if i did that.  :wink:

7

which is exactly why i chose that word. :stuck_out_tongue:

You tryin’ to call me an ass? hahahhaha

Also, i have a question for the front panel.

The search engine of this forum is your friend :slight_smile: try the word lazertran for a nice start :slight_smile: Lots of people have DIY’d their panels, because the commercial ones are the most expensive part by far… The FPE panels are reallllly nice if you can afford them, but having a decal made could be a really good option, or you can buy lazertran and print your own, paint them on by hand, have a sticker made, or go without labeling altogether - although I may complain about it ;D (That’s a joke that you’ll get when you read some of your search results)

Just don’t forget about the drilling…

8

Thanks for telling me about lazertran! I think this is the best option to date, and most likely the one i’m going to go with. i have a friend whose parents own a poster-size color laser printer, so i think i’ll have no problem in getting a nice, colorful UI printed.

I’m using the PDF of the Step-C design as a guideline. I’ll probably just change some colors, the font, and put a design in the background. I don’t think i’m going to start changing the position of the knobs or anything.

What is the size of this surface, though? I’m using 40cm by 13 cm for now, but i’d rather have the exact measurements.

In other news, i ordered the parts for the midibox sid yesterday, and i can’t wait until they come in. :slight_smile:

9

What is the size of this surface, though?

Download the FrontPanelDesigner

http://www.schaeffer-apparatebau.de/English/FPD_index.htm

and open TKs Frontpanel-file

http://ucapps.de/midibox_sid_cs/mbsid_panel.fpd

Now you can see exactly where everything is situated and c+p it directly in your preferred graphics-program (CorelDraw12 in my case). this will work perfectly.