MIDIbox of the Week (MIDIbox SID of Majo)

MIDIbox of the Week
1

The MIDIbox SID in a C64-II case from Majo.

It’s especially interesting how he has mounted the encoders/leds/buttons:

http://www.midibox.org/midibox_gallery/michele5.jpg

http://www.midibox.org/midibox_gallery/michele6.jpg

http://www.midibox.org/midibox_gallery/michele7.jpg

http://www.midibox.org/midibox_gallery/michele8.jpg

http://www.midibox.org/midibox_gallery/michele9.jpg

http://www.midibox.org/midibox_gallery/michele10.jpg

http://www.midibox.org/midibox_gallery/michele11.jpg

michele1.jpg
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michele2.jpg
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michele3.jpg
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michele4.jpg
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2

looking good! Nice psu as well!

Well done.

3

Go the hot glue gun!  :o

Front panel looks good!

4

I didn’t make good experiences with the glue gun.

The glue didn’t glue very well on Aluminium or metal.

If you pull the fixed part you have it back in your hand again …

Perhaps there are other glue sticks that fits better. Do you know one ?

greets

Doc

5

I used two-compound glue for my stuff. If you sand both

sides (e.g. alu on alu) it holds like hell! Really good stuff!! I

used it even for making little alu-90°-angles on the top cover

for screwing it to the side covers! All are holding up to today!

(you are more likely to bend the alu than to get it off again)

6

Hi,

here´s another hint for cables:

Last summer I did an internship at Diezel (guitar amps), there we used a combination of “fast glue” (ger. Sekundenkleber - Pattex/Loctite/…) and a heat gun to attach cables to metal.

These (not two component) “fast glues” normally are not too good on metal. You´ve got to glue the cable to the metal, press the cable to the metal firmly and then point a heat gun (or strong hair dryer) onto the back side of the metal. Then pull away both finger and heat gun short before you´d burn your finger :slight_smile: . The heat makes the glue hold much better.

It´s probably a good idea to do this in front of an open window. The buttons etc. should not be fitted yet to prevent melting/frying any components. And of cause this method is not viable for plastic on plastic and a bit dangerous when the panel is finished with car laquer (bubbles..). Powder finish (schaeffer) should be less dangerous.

Another good idea is to fit open “Kabelbinder” (no idea what the english word is, these white plastic strips you can pull close around cables to tie them togeter) to the empty panel with this method, so you can afterwards fit the switches/encoders etc., connect them and use the “Kabelbinders” to attach the cables at last.

regards,

Seppoman

7

“Kabelbinder” = Cable Tie in English, and god bless who ever invented them!

8

How to realize the Front Panel like Mojo did by yourself:

  1. Print on sticker’s Polyester paper by inkjet printer the Panel image.

  2. Gule it on a trasparent Polycarbonate (not plexyglass), pay attenction to not leave air bubble.

  3. Than glue on a sticker trasparent Film for cold millwork (i don’t know the exact term), pay attenction to not leave air bubble too. May you use a roller to lay flat.

  4. Now you can drill your hole on the panel how you prefer and cut the LCD hole with a cutter.

That’s all.

Translate by ‘very poor english ganchan dictionary’.

  ;D

9

Thanks Ganchan! I was going to try this method because I have access to excellent printers but I was wary of wasting paper and ink…