Oh my, I might have to take you up on that VFD. Any idea how much extra current it draws? Looks fantastic.
Thanks a lot for the info! It was a perfect timing for me, as I was trying to get this OLED display working:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131999107925
After soldering the bridges and setting the device ID to use the 8bit driver, it works!
Being so recessed does it give viewing issues from certain angles?
19 hours ago, ChinMuzik said:
Being so recessed does it give viewing issues from certain angles?
No, that’s the beauty of the OLED, outstanding viewing angles. The recess thing is what it is, there is no way around it since the OLED pcb would interfere with the tact switches above and below it. Once I get a dark window on it, it will look just fine.
I am glad other people got it working too 
Good looking stuff guys !!
Not sure what I’m doing wrong but my VFD display is giving some garbage output.
I’ve done the following in order.
-
soldered the SMT Bridges and checked for continuity
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uploaded device_id_00_lcd7.hex
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uploaded setup_mb6582.hex
Powered up, I’m getting this.
I am having the same Problem.. so need to figure out why..
Just a quick update - i got the old driver from hawkeye but i could not get it to work on my MB6582.
Currently i am modifying the driver with a little more stopcycles and i added a filtering stage on the VFD with an 47uF, 100nF, 10nF, 1nF Cap directly going to +5V / GND.
I also added a ferrite cable shield near the VFD and it seems that now i get reasonable output.
Sometimes when there are fast changes i still have the display a little bit buggy but i will post the hex of the modified firmware (with V2.045) as soon as i get it more stable.
So i would recommend to all that are having problems to check their power supply and shielding.
If you use a switching regulator it is very likely that you have noise on your +5V Line - if you don’t use a switching regulator it is very likely you don’t have enough power to drive the VFD.
Glad it works now and that you took my advice of filtering the power supply lines and adding the ferrite to the data lines.
I never experienced the problem, because i am using a 78S05 capable of delivering 2 Amps and that is easily enough for the MB6582 (in conjunction with a heatsink) - i know why i sometimes prefer linear vregs and why i recommended it in about 5 of our 10 total private messages we exchanged on this matter :-). It is also a nice footwarmer in winter.
@Altitude: this might explain your VFD troubles we had a few years back… the Recom switcher seems to be a bit RF-noisy and the VFDs seem to be easily distracted by that noise. In a non-midibox project also a few years back, i had severe troubles with another switching 780X replacement, that totally bombed the 433 MHz band, but that is another story…
Many greets,
Peter
I’m gonna give this a go again.
The VFD looks so good
Ok guys.. got it working now. Here is a short summary for those who would also like to give it a try:
Upload the attached “setup_mb6582_vfd.hex” (its the newest V2.045 with hawkeyes driver and a couple of more stopcycles)
Solder a 47uF, 100nF, 10nF and 1nF Cap directly on the LCD (+5V / GND).
Put a ferrite on the cable near the plug of the LCD.
Before the ferrite put in an 56uH inductor into the cable - solder it and put a shrinktube over it to protect from shortcircuit.
I tried it now with very fast changes in Menus etc. etc. and it seems to be stable.
If you can’t get it to work please also try to erase your pic and start from scratch (bootloader - mios / firmware - etc.) and don’t change the LCD ID to 7 (like with the OLED) - just upload the setup_mb6582_vfd.hex.
If its still not working i can make a copy of my complete pic and send you the hex for burning a 1:1 copy of my pic.
Have a good weekend.
good to see many happy oled and vfd users 
I’m just about to try replacing my LCD with an OLED. Just wondering, what do the jumpers on the base board do? Do I need to patch them?
Figured it out. Before, with the old LCD:
After installing OLED:
Only problem now is that the OLED display is much thinner than the LCD, hence sinking very deep into the panel. I will try 3d printing some bezel to cover for it to some extent. That’s probably what I can do, save trying to raise the OLED panel from the PCB, which would likely fail miserably.
I just stuck a darkly tinted window, it obscures the depth.. There is no way to go in front of the PCB, it will interfere with the tacts
I mean separating the OLED panel from its own PCB, installing some kind of raisers. But I guess there is some kind of leading rubber list in contact with the PCB via some coal layer, and I don’t have the equipment nor knowledge modifying that.
Does this mod work on the original CORE_8_Module (non-MB6582 version) too? I am talking about SIDV2 usage, not another MIDIBox project. Are the hex upload and the bridges still required?