Some problems (PIC Burner) and some ideas

MIDIbox HUIs
1

Hi all,

my first post here :slight_smile: Some ideas and some problems.

I searched the web for DIY MIDI controllers. First I’ve build this one: http://come.to/re_turn and that was first time when I touched virtual knobs with my own hands :slight_smile:

first MIDI controller - ReTurn (sorry for the dust, got some repairs @home now)

not used front case for ReTurn - printed on alu (see

http://www.studioq.pl/html/metal.html for details, text in polish only. Prices: about 8EU for A4, 15EU for A3)

But this project is quite old and was definitelly missing something. Knobs only (and only eight), no buttons etc.

So I decided to try MIDIBox - project I saw about two years ago first time, but was too difficult then. Now it’s time to start all the mess with MB64.

  1. I bought premade PCB’s for Core, LTC, 1xDIN4, 2xAIN4, 1xDOUT4. Almost soldered now, just waiting for some parts. For connections between DIN/AIN/DOUT PCB’s I use SIL headers, but in the shape of letter “L” so complete PCB is shorter (cables above resistors) and I can stack them.

L-shaped SIL headers

  1. Found some interesting perypherials, especially these:

http://trim-pot.com.pl/produkty.php?id_kategoria=191

small analog joystick, 2x10k linear - about 2 EU only :)) if you disassemble and remove the pressure spring, shoulder stays where you leave him (doesn’t go back to center). I bought 6 and think there will be my favorite toy. They are almost as small as the pots.

joystick

  1. I’ve decided to do board for pots, because i really like these one which are mounted directly on PCB:

http://trim-pot.com.pl/szukaj.php?q=RV121NP%2FH%2F-CC-B10K-30F&x=0&y=0

and joysticks must be mounted on board, too.

Now trying to incorporate buttons and LEDs into the same board. Less cables = more stability :slight_smile: And the big advantage for me is, that I can mount complete PCB to bottom of case (it counts especially for buttons - see the concept described below).

  1. Idea for nice looking buttons:

  • bought 2 chip TV pilots (on polish service http://www.allegro.pl, similar to ebay, about 2EU each) - one without any descriptions on buttons (there were on case only). Searched for pilots with rounded buttons. I smashed the pilot and cutted elastic part into single buttons. On PCB will be some microswitches with tall buttons (arch? don’t know that word in english), and pushing the “pilot” buttons will translate to pushing the microswitches. Because of rounded shapes, all i have to do is simple drill of front case and insert buttons from pilot in it before mounting everything (upside down, or the buttons will fly out).

  • some rounded buttons from second pilot had descriptions on self. So, now I have buttons with “play”, “stop”, “red dot (record)”, “ok”, “exit”, “menu” “+”, “-” and 4 colored (from teletext). Thanx for that idea to my girlfriend and her TV chanels surfing :slight_smile: Can be used for nav buttons or for playing control in LC emulation, I think I’ll find some other appliances. Traktor DJ’s can use these buttons for play/stop/cue etc.

one picture worth more than thousand words.

Now, some stupid questions from newbie:

  • I want to build my own PIC burner, got PCB and all the stuff. What cable should I use to program PIC? Standard cable for printer (LPT) will be enough? What exactly means “1:1 LPT cable”?

  • If I fully understood the procedure, i should: 1) burn the bootloader into PIC 2) send MIOS via MIDI 3) send app - (which one? that: ain64_din128_dout128_v1_3.zip) via MIDI and that’s all? Should that work this way?

  • For now, i’ve got only half of pots (including these from joysticks). So - should I modify something in app?

More questions soon :))) And sorry for mistakes - english is not my native.

2

Hi brother, we welcome at forum.

Thank you for putting interesting links. I just looked for printed alu panel.

  • I want to build my own PIC burner, got PCB and all the stuff. What cable should I use to program PIC? Standard cable for printer (LPT) will be enough? What exactly means “1:1 LPT cable”?

It isnt printer cable. Its cable with connector for socket at pcb on PIC burner. When you will buy soket take alerady cable. 1:1 mean male - female LPT.

  • If I fully understood the procedure, i should: 1) burn the bootloader into PIC 2) send MIOS via MIDI 3) send app - (which one? that: ain64_din128_dout128_v1_3.zip) via MIDI and that’s all? Should that work this way?

yes. You can choose your prefer app or modify, customize.

  • For now, i’ve got only half of pots (including these from joysticks). So - should I modify something in app?

You can ground unused AINX pins for avoid problems or setting number of pots in a code. Remember to set muxed or if you not use AINX unmuxed

good luck!

3

It isnt printer cable. Its cable with connector for socket at pcb on PIC burner. When you will buy soket take alerady cable. 1:1 mean male - female LPT.

Is the “1:1 LPT cable” the same as “null-modem cable”? I’ve searched electronic shop today for 1:1 but no luck. So maybe it’s just other name of the same cables?

4

Hi Goldie,

No, the “null” is where the receive and transmit lines are flipped from one end to the other, so two similar devices can communicate over one cable. The 1:1 type takes all the lines straight through, like pin1 on one end to pin1 on the other and so on. Just remember you’re looking at a mirror image between the female and male plugs, so pin one will be on the left side of one and the right of the other.

Hope that helps,

George

5

Sure that helps, thanks.