New SID Kit (R3) and Caps Help

MIDIbox SID
1

What caps are what that came with my kit I just received?  ???

Here’s what I assume.

Poly styrene

2 small 470J 50V - I assume these are the poly 470pf (c1,2)

2 large 5800J 50V - no Idea unless 5800pf??

ceramic

3 (yellow bead in center of LED) marked K5U 104M (c8,12,14)

assumed these are 100nf or .1uf

2 small disks marked as 102 (assumed these are probably 1nf or.001uf) (c3,7)

1 that looks to be “yellow dipped” with 334 on one side k5m on the other (c10)

then there are 2 that I’m not sure what they are.

one that’s “blue dipped” markings are 334 M5E

one small disk marked 471

that’s what I’m guessing so far but, please correct me if I’m wrong (avoiding the infamous magical blue smoke before soldering)

I tried searching mouser for some kind of referance to what the parts look like, and what the markings would be but am unable to locate any of these. at this point, it’s mostly been educated guessing. I am a n00b but I try my best.  :stuck_out_tongue:

2

http://www.avishowtech.com/mbhp/mbhp_SIDR3.html

all the info you need is on there.. good luck

3

I did. Printed up the parts list, and sat sorting through the components.  :-[

Is there something that’s just blatantly obvious that I’m missing?  I read the page at least 4-5 times making sure I understood everything before ordering the kit. :-\

I’m used to having the parts labeled by the distributer (mouser) for other synth projects that I’ve created (RJW VCO musicfromouterspace.com). I mean, I’m sure I’m not missing anything from the kit. It’s just the idetification of these 2 parts.

examp.

I cannot put a 1uf cap into c3 if there is no marking on it to tell me that it’s 1uf.

maby I’m being just too paranoid about blowing out my SID.

HELP!

4

So on the page at SmashTV’s site did you point at each component with your mouse?  There are ‘pop-up’ hints that aid in identifying the parts…

5

well, there is no live board map for the R3 board version, so I’m dry fitting according to the designators on the R2 live board map. On the parts list for c8, 12-14 (for the R3 board), and according to the live board map (R2), there should be 4 caps of the same value. the .1uf 's. I only got 3 in the kit (I’ll check on this myself and ask about that if I cannot figure it out).

Anyhoo, the R2 board map shows c4 as the 470pf cap. I have a ceramic disk marked 471. Could that be it?

Then I’m left with this blue dipped Cap marked with “335 M5E”. is this an extra one? or the missing cap for C8, 12-14?

Some of the other n00bs seem to have trouble with the Core and say the SID is easy. I finished out the Core in about an hour after opening the package.  :slight_smile:

I think I’m starting to get somewhat confused with the SID kit and the parts that came with it. perhaps it would have been easier if I just got the plain board and sourced my own parts instead of buying the kit. :frowning:

I’m not about to give up yet.

6

well, there is no live board map for the R3 board version,

Odd, the link posted above takes me to a page labelled R3 SID Module.  And I get a live map.  In any event, don’t give up, I’m sure SmashTV will weigh in here with comments any time now…

7

I click on the above link and get “click here for past revisions”. I get the board image but no live map. Am I just that oblivious? I almost feel like an “uneducated” customer calling into tech support (my day job).  :stuck_out_tongue:

8

Good! :slight_smile: It’ll make you a better techo to feel what it’s like to be the end-user calling for help.

Try firefox and the map will work. I’ll bring this up in another thread…

9

damn you stryd_one.  :stuck_out_tongue:

I don’t speak html, I speak in networks.

I was mulling over it when I was heading home.

gahh.

Ok. So I was allready smart enough, cuz it’s my default brower at home, but I was hitting his site from a machine that was without firefox.  :slight_smile:

(even a technoid can feel like a dumbass from time to time)  ;D

Thanks guys. I’ll post some pics after I finish the boards up.

10

well, there is no live board map for the R3 board version, so I’m dry fitting according to the designators on the R2 live board map.

What browser are you using?  I’ll have to take a look at it with the same one to figure out what’s not working.

On the parts list for c8, 12-14 (for the R3 board), and according to the live board map (R2), there should be 4 caps of the same value. the .1uf 's. I only got 3 in the kit (I’ll check on this myself and ask about that if I cannot figure it out).

I’m pretty sure I shorted you (and 7 other people) some caps…Too many late nights trying to make up kits  :-\

The SID will work fine without C13 or C14, and I’ll happily send out the missing caps to anyone who has kits from this batch, but you have to let me know via my contact form (since I have no way to associate your forum alias with your order history)

Anyhoo, the R2 board map shows c4 as the 470pf cap. I have a ceramic disk marked 471. Could that be it?

Yes.

Then I’m left with this blue dipped Cap marked with “335 M5E”. is this an extra one? or the missing cap for C8, 12-14?

This cap is actually an “extra” .33uF, I had trouble getting the usual .33’s, ended up with the blue ones, and since they are different than the usual ones were overlooked and loaded with the usual caps when they came in…Sorry to add to the confusion!  :-\

Some of the other n00bs seem to have trouble with the Core and say the SID is easy. I finished out the Core in about an hour after opening the package.  :slight_smile:

It really is, but reading and deciphering cap codes printed in the smallest possible type make it harder than it should be…And it does not help when I have loaded some with extra and missing parts…

I think I’m starting to get somewhat confused with the SID kit and the parts that came with it. perhaps it would have been easier if I just got the plain board and sourced my own parts instead of buying the kit. :frowning:

I don’t mean to disappoint, If you want to source your own send me back the kit parts and I’ll give you a refund for those, or if you want me to send you another .1mF no problem…hit me with a message on my contact form either way, give me a chance to make it right.  :slight_smile:

Now on to capacitor codes:

All ceramics have a 3 digit code telling you the value…http://www.avishowtech.com/mbhp/caps.html shows how to break this number down into something relative.  I have also added the codes on the parts list on the SID R3 page, for others who might be having the same issues with the live map thing.

Let me know if you have more questions or issues!  :wink:

Best

Smash

11

I’m pretty sure I shorted you (and 7 other people) some caps…Too many late nights trying to make up kits  Undecided

The SID will work fine without C13 or C14, and I’ll happily send out the missing caps to anyone who has kits from this batch, but you have to let me know via my contact form (since I have no way to associate your forum alias with your order history)

I too can understand the “up late getting other things done when you’ve been awake for 20 hours with only 4 hours of sleep the previous night” situation. (this is me almost everyday after working 10 hour shifts). So, I know about the grogginess when working late, a lot.  :slight_smile:

anyhoo,

I’ll PM you with my info so I can get the missing cap.

Thanks again, cuz now I can move forward with this!  8)

12

After some slight confusion on the serial cables, My MbSID is up and running.

Here’s the PIC.

Yes that’s a fan there (ignore the abit logo).  ::slight_smile:

Here’s the PSU construction involves using a single 5v regulator powered from a 12v 1000mA wall adapter.

The reason for the fan is from stories that the regulator may get very hot.

So slapped some thermal compound and a fan on it, and connected the fan to the 12v line from the adapter. the Sid’s J1 is also connected to this. I used the optimized PSU setup, but no caps to filter out any current wonkyness (is already filtered off the wall adapter).

The fan might have been overkill, but it will keep it cool, and the audio output noise is decently low.

Again thanks to TK, Smash, and the rest of the community for your help on this amazing DIY project.  8)

13

Fan = noisy (I mean electrically, not audibly)

I’d go for a nice big passive heatsink…

14

The fan does create a little bit of noise, but I also have a LINE6 POD v2 that has a noise gate on it and it does help to filter out most of it, and it’s a mean sounding little beast. I’ll post some sound clips once I have a convenient method of recording it. ;D