i connect the lcd, via a DIL connector, and yes i have 2 pins A and K, but they looks like integrated on the DIL connector.
True, this seems to be correct. I was suspecting that the backlight pins might be located on the opposite side of the DIL connector - I have a few displays for which the A nd K pins are not part of the DIL connector, but obviously (from looking at the data sheet) this is not the case here.
Edit: From the picture above I see that you are not using an external power supply but a USB port for power. Try disconnecting one of the displays and see if that makes the remaining backlight brighter and solves your SD card issues… According to the datasheet each display backlight consumes 120mA.
I can’t work out the switch! It seems to have a pin missing as I would expect two pins for the switch itself and another two for the LED. Looking at the picture, the two pins at the bottom appear to be the LED and the one at the top is one of the switch contacts - the other is missing!:frantics:
Agreed with ilmenator, its not good to see people get re-animated, when they don´t need re-animation
Question: wouldn´t it be possible to power a standard SEQ V4 via the USB port? There are quite cheap USB hubs available, that give a bit more oompf than the USB-standard-specified 500mA power, that should be sufficient even for high-power backlit LCD displays.
I’m inclined to agree with ilmenator and Hawkeye. With mains power, if you aren’t 100% sure what you are doing, don’t do it. You could fry your Seq and everything connected to it, or you could fry yourself or start a fire.
Go with USB power, or if that isn’t enough how about a wall-wart?
Haha, really thanks all of you to take care of me like that ! :flowers:
I understand my questions could appears really “kiddy”, and for sure noobs (Maybe cause of my poor english vocabulary and language in general).
i will be really care (I already worked on a house to change interruptor, and did some electrical routing) i know what kind of dangerous thing the high voltgae can be.
I promise to be really care !
If i want to use this kind of internal PSU, it´s just to learn a lot of things, and because at the end i will only have just the power plug, no hub or something else. i´m a perfectionnist ! :rolleyes:
that´s the same for the enclosure, i don´t know anything about woodwork, but i will do a enclosure in one piece of mapple, cause i started my first project in Canada ! i will take my time, bur for the good thing !
Ok, as long as you promise to leave your left hand always in your back pocket, when working with this
(edit: schematics removed due to blown switch after Lamouette tried it, don´t want anyone get electrocuted :)
Regarding the wire - use 230v wire, as used for installing lamps in your house, they usually consist of a blue (hot phase) and black (neutral phase) stiff wire.
No guarantees on this one though. It may blow your household fuse, if I interpreted the datasheet wrong - the same manufacturer also offers the switch with a 12v lamp, probably for switching 12v lines. Hope you have the 230V one.
Best of luck!
Peter
Note: within an electric device, you are free to swap neutral and hot phase, because you never know which way the ac mains plug is plugged in. Just for household installations, you should make sure that the colors (black for neutral and blue for hot phase) are met, but i´ve seen quite a few installations over the years where the electricians were lazy.
PS: It would be wise to add a 220V / 0.5 Amps fuse on the “hot wire” before the transformer in. If the transformer coil has a short, it will otherwise blow your household fuse (happened to me last week with an unfused broken transformer). Edit: Forget that last sentence, i´ve just seen your open frame psu already has a fuse on its input. Very good!
ok, i do exactly your schema, but the button exploded ! :yes:
i will try another test tomorow ! i will go to sleep now, but i will purpose another schema tomorow ! see you later !!!
(That was a funny experience ! )
it’s write 12 vdc near on the button, but also 120-240V so i think the led illuminated led need a 12V power that’s why i purpose my last schema (see above)
see you !
also for my connectivity beeper : When it beep, there is signal or not ?
Dude ! You shouldn ´t have turned it on, if it says 12V and you have only connected it to AC mains wires! :shocked: Great, that nothing else happened!
Did you measure before switching on? Two pins are switched together/connected, when the connectivity beeper beeps, if it does not beep not, they´re not connected.
Lesson learned: Never hook up a device to ac mains that connects neutral and live phase together, otherwise Kaboom :hairy:.
Hope the switch was not too expensive, please don´t reuse it in any other projects, it is fried now.
Why not just use a standard non-illuminated switch? The SEQ has enough lights to indicate function!
Or maybe rethink using USB power, it is safe, inexpensive and so on
no, it was not an expensive switch, (by fear about not have suffisant part, i ordered 5 of them, so i have 4 try again ! )
tonight i will first try to use the switch without illumination just to see if the voltage is good. after that i will mesure if i have 12V at the output of the PSU.
if yes i will connect the + of the 12Vdc to the free pin of the switch.
If i think good, it will be fine ! i give you some news new tonight if I dont burn the whole neighborhood
a) using your connectivity beeper, before soldering, measure which two pins can be interupted by flicking the switch.
b) wire one of these pins to the ac inlet and protect with shrink tube
c) wire the other of these pins to the psu and protect with shrink tube
d) wire the other phase of the ac inlet to the other phase of the psu and protect with shrink tube.
This should make the PSU switchable. Please wear a saftey helmet, rubber gloves and leave your left hand in your back pocket :).
It may be that the light is already burning when switched on and wired like this. Maybe the third pin is an “alternating” switch port, which i believe by now.
Please do not back-connect the 12v output of the psu to the free pin of the switch, it cannot be that the light burns like this.
) i have some questions !!
(Maybe cause of my poor english vocabulary and language in general).
! You shouldn ´t have turned it on, if it says 12V and you have only connected it to AC mains wires! :shocked: Great, that nothing else happened!
