You will get all the guidance you will need from this forum… But if you don’t take lots of time to read and maybe print out all the relevant documentation, or if you are not very patient, you stand no chance… So long as you are willing to stick with it, and be nice, you’ll be fine Good luck with the box. I’ll enjoy watching your progress.
well.. you can test them with a multimeter, thats the easiest way.. thats how i do it.. or you could look up the color codes..all i had to do was type resistor in google, and press the “i’m feeling lucky” button and the website i visited gave me all the info i needed.. if i didnt know how resistors work and/or cant distinguish between the different values..
ok, so i’m desoldering the bracket for the PIC as well as every single resitor on the core board… i’m to the point where i just wanna order another one and just start a new…
ok, so i’m desoldering the bracket for the PIC as well as every single resitor on the core board… i’m to the point where i just wanna order another one and just start a new…
i might just have to do that.
this removing thing isn’t going so well.
oof I hate to hear that…even after so many years of desoldering, there are still some that give me problems, even with the right tools…
I’m thinking you are probably way past that info, so let’s talk desoldering…
The bulb type desoldering tools are not that great for double sided boards with plated through holes, and only the really high price solder suckers do anything but frustrate.
The workable alternative is “Desoldering Braid”, from your local radio shack.
The secret to this stuff is all in the technique, and you will want to practice a few times on a throw away board.
Lay the braid as flat as possible on the solder that you want to remove, put your iron on top of the braid, and count to 5 or so then remove the iron (otherwise the pads/traces will try to lift off the board due to overheating).
The idea is to get as much of the braid’s surface in contact with the solder, and as much of the beveled tip of your iron in contact with the braid…a little practice will show you what I mean. This stuff works like an oil lamp wick, and for it to do it’s thing you want just the braid touching your target solder, not the iron as much as possible.
In all the years wrenching games out in on location there were always at least two rolls of this stuff in my toolkit…and an extra set of forceps just to hold the braid since it gets very hot as you go. I tried every brand I could find and quickly realized that the radio shack brand for this stuff is as good as it gets.
Let us know how it goes, if the braid gives you problems I’ll try to do better at explaining it (maybe with a 15 second video clip)