http://discourse.midibox.org/t/topic/19025
First question: are pull ups on the unused pins still recommended?
yes, in any case all pull-ups should be added regardless if a feature is currently used by the firmware or not.
Best Regards, Thorsten.
Great, will do!
and done I think. All 16 mil/single sided, I should check the clearances inside the DIP40 socket. I put in J5B in case anyone wants some extra pot/CV sources.
There are different DIP-Sockets Types outthere, to be shure that most of them have place, you have to make more space arround them…
For the 40Pin DIP Socket, and the Resistors and CAPS under/in it > move them to the middle of the socket as much as you can…
For the case you have not the right CAPS ordered and the caps are to big, it make sense to make more place arround it…
As I can see this changes are easyli…possible without changing the PCB-Size
When using Sockets for the DIPs you have to make more space arround them…
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It is always good to check the pcb design with other people ;) - technicly i dont have checked it.
Have a nice weekend - phat
Thanks for having a look, I will move the resistors away from the edge of the DIP40. I always put caps as close as possible to the power pins for the best effectiveness. Some 4-wall sockets are actually mirrored (we’re looking at the back of the board). It’s always best if you don’t have to, but bending components out of the way or putting them on the other side of the board is always possible. OSHpark won’t be too expensive so I’ll order a couple after a few changes.
why single sided? there is no cost benefit for that
Well he could have some fancy patterns etched on the other side!
why single sided? there is no cost benefit for that
Well he could have some fancy patterns etched on the other side!
Heh, nothing too fancy!
I’m still learning PCB design, but one rule of thumb is that you shouldn’t have breaks in your ground plane where signals run across. If they go over a slot the return current has to take the long way around. Probably complete overkill unless you’re getting into the MHz range, but I figure why not if it can be done without too much fuss.
The blue is a keepout zone as measured from the Core r4,
The blue is a keepout zone as measured from the Core r4,
You’re actually ignoring that zone for two of your resistors…
You’re actually ignoring that zone for two of your resistors…
It looks that way but thankfully the socket doesn’t go right to the PCB surface. Check a Core8 or on midibox-shop.com and you’ll see.
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Heh, nothing too fancy!<br />
<br />
I’m still learning PCB design, but one rule of thumb is that you shouldn’t have breaks in your ground plane where signals run across. If they go over a slot the return current has to take the long way around. Probably complete overkill unless you’re getting into the MHz range, but I figure why not if it can be done without too much fuss.<br />
<br />
<span rel=‘lightbox’><img src=‘’ alt=‘Posted Image’ class=‘bbc_img’ /></span><br />
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The blue is a keepout zone as measured from the Core r4,</p></blockquote>
Also have a look to the outlines of a 8pin socket for the optocoupler IC2. It seams to me that the resistors arround it are to near… And maybe C4 will be hard to mount as well.
Best regards, novski
Humble pie!
:turned:
No big deal with the 3M socket, just clip back a bit of the plastic and it fits under just fine!
NICE!!!