So I finally got round to finish my MB-6582. Channel 3 is still silent, but I guess I will be able to fix that - didn’t have the time to look into that yet.
The case is a Formulor/Ponoko case, with flat top LEDs (I do not intend to ever separate the upper PCB from the front…) and a plexi window for which i milled the grooves manually. Happy here! :frantics:
Cool thing!
Looking great! The flat-top LEDs are a little bit tricky during the assembly stage, aren´t they? 
Many greets,
Peter
Well if you plan ahead it’s actually quite easy. I stuffed the LEDs loosely and then mounted the PCB to the frontpanel. Only after that i pushed the LEDs into place one by one and soldered them. One leg first, then make sure all of them sit flush, and then the second leg.
Great work!
I really like it.
Best regards
Antonio
P.S.
Is it a bad idea a tutorial for PONOKO case design in Tips and Tricks section?
In example I am very scared to use it as I really dont know how to start.
It’s actually a good idea, I think a lot of people could benefit. The Ponoko frontpanels can easily compete with aluminum ones, especially as they are usually not so large and stability/bending is not a big problem. However, it’s not necessary to create a tutorial, there is a lot of information around already:
If you just go to the Ponoko website you can find a number of good hints.
Over at the Mutable Instruments forum you will find a very nice and useful tutorial from schrab(ikus).
For the notches of the case, go over to rahulbotics and enter the dimensions of the case. The notches will be created automatically and you get a PDF which you can then use as a basis for your design.
Just do it - start with something easy before you go for an expensive panel.
Wow that turned out really awesome!! Nice job!
Very nice work indeed!
Great job Me likey!
This looks cool. Like the older brother of the sammichSID. How much did you pay, ilmenator?
looks awesome!
somehow at first glance the ponoko style is automatically translated into sammich format and makes it look small, but i know it isn’t small at all.
a second look makes it clear
great job!
How much did you pay, ilmenator?
Well that’s a bit hard to say, because I had a larger panel to cut for which I had to choose Ponoko’s P3 size. Then I simply placed the MB-6582 parts on the leftover space. This way, there was no material costs for it. The total panel was around 134,- Euros, with most real estate and complexity dedicated to the other elements. I think Ponoko’s P2 size should account for a complete case, and the cutting and engraving is probably around 50,- Euros or so. I could try to separate the two designs and get a price quote for the MB-6582 alone if there is interest. If you left out the large “MB-6582” engraving in the front and chose straight ventilation slots instead of the honeycomb structure in the side panels it would become even cheaper.
The funny thing is that I actually detected a flaw in Ponoko’s pricing algorithm, reported that, and got a discount. In order to make the panel as cheap as possible, it is currently required to follow a strategy in which you “draw” those cuts that are close to each other in a proper sequence. I.e. for example starting at the top left, and then going right and down and left again, filling the panel in a single “macro-motion”. The worst thing you can do is to “draw” all the mounting holes first, then the LED holes, then the tact switch holes, then the encoder holes. The problem is that Ponoko’s pricing algorithm will determine the laser’s motion according to the EPS file structure, and that in turn is defined by the order in which you added the cuts originally. They told me that they would be re-working their algorithm, but that it might take a bit of time before the changes were actually implemented.
somehow at first glance the ponoko style is automatically translated into sammich format and makes it look small, but i know it isn’t small at all.
a second look makes it clear
Yes, and you are also quite surprised when you hold it in your hand for the first time - this thing is heavy and does not feel like cheap plastic at all!
Nice.. I’d love to see a nudie pic with top (or bottom) and side off. I’ve been bouncing around the idea of doing a metal case for mine via FPE and this gives me motivation to do so..
If you want a ponoko tutorial, schrab already did it: http://mutable-instruments.net/forum/discussion/1520/getting-started-with-case-design#Item_31
Nice.. I’d love to see a nudie pic with top (or bottom) and side off.
Top off? Not going to happen, I am using flat top LEDs. Plus, all you are going to see is Wilba’s standard boards, available in Tim’s shop. Apart from a Traco power regulator there are no surprises on the inside.
If you want a ponoko tutorial, schrab already did it: http://mutable-instruments.net/forum/discussion/1520/getting-started-with-case-design#Item_31
Yes, that’s where my second link in one of my postings above is pointing to 
.
understood :), figured as much with those flat tops..
How did you do the interconnects between the boards? That’s really what I’m interested in. I was considering doing the SIL type connections like in the Shruthi
@ilmenator: I’d be interested, if it doesn’t take much time. I’d go for the complete case with the honeycomb structure but without the engraving.
How did you do the interconnects between the boards? That’s really what I’m interested in. I was considering doing the SIL type connections like in the Shruthi
From the top of my head I seem to remember that the base PCB is slightly less deep than the control board, so stacking is a no-no because then the MIDI connectors and audio jacks on the base board would not reach the back wall of the enclosure. And if I am not mistaken, then the mounting holes don’t match. I went for regular (but slightly more sturdy) flat cables soldered on both ends directly to the boards. That was a lot of work I can tell you…
@ilmenator: I’d be interested, if it doesn’t take much time. I’d go for the complete case with the honeycomb structure but without the engraving.
I hope to find the time to check this out tonight.
I hope to find the time to check this out tonight.
Cool, thanks!
From the top of my head I seem to remember that the base PCB is slightly less deep than the control board, so stacking is a no-no ..
Good to know. Didn’t even think of that. I guess the 0.1" spaced ribbon would be better here than on the Pactec case. I replaced that stuff with wire leads on mine since It was breaking from opening and closing the case (and yes, that was a ton of work too). Are there dimensions for the boards available somewhere or did you just use the hole spacing from the pactec spec sheet?
I used schrab(icus)'s tutorial over at Mutable to design a case for my pioneer run Anushri before the official case files were made available. While I’d loved to have those to work from so I would have fixed a few small errors, I’m damn proud of the fact that I designed a case from pcb files up that does work (albeit with some slight modifications) and looks great with custom labeling/vents/etc. Had no idea about the drawing pricing. It would seem to be a bit laborious to attempt to plan out the cuts. Unless of course one drew the entire eps file, then went back and recreated using the specs of the finished design starting at the top left. As it is I plan on doing a couple more drawings, hopefully this week for a couple more panels/boxes to use the $50 make voucher I got during their last special.
That is slick. Good job!
