I think it doesn’t matter, which ~ pins you select.
I made a quick diagram just to ensure:
By exchaning the ~ pins (difference between left and right circuit), from the electrical point of view nothing will change. It’s like if you would flip the diodes at the vertical axis. Since the bridge is symmetrical, you would see “the same picture”
I highly recomment to add fuses to the AC lines. A short circuit at the DC side could not only blow up the bridges, but also other components!
Please don’t add the fuse to the high-voltage lines, this is too dangerous (especially when the sockets are not isolated). Only add them to the 12V lines
Any PSU which delivers a bidirectional voltage will work. You could even supply the OPs with +/- 9V or +/- 15V. Have a look into your 1U racks, maybe there is already a suitable PSU which you could canibalize?
is there an error on the pdf??
Nobody else reported an error in this schematic in the past. I don’t know, what should be wrong there.
Did you cross-check your circuit with the PCB of Talion? It is a nice reference!
Weird… Did someone delete my reply to this?
I hope that I haven’t clicked on the delete button by fault. I remember that I did this some months ago in another posting when I moved my mouse under unstable conditions (on my sofa too quickly. But I noticed this immediately. What I want to say: if I removed your posting unintentionally, please don’t take this personally!
When did you write your posting? If it was before 2007-02-11, ca. 18:00, I’m sure that it wasn’t my error…
Any PSU which delivers a bidirectional voltage will work. You could even supply the OPs with +/- 9V or +/- 15V. Have a look into your 1U racks, maybe there is already a suitable PSU which you could canibalize?
That was the first thing i did :) it had +5VDC and +10VDC … looked everywhere for a bidirectional.
Also, just checked Talion’s pdf with yours, and it seems to match up.
But, back to my story. just before the fuse blown , i tried with one 12,0,12 1Amp transformer which buzzed like MAD,
but quick readouts at the end gave me proper and stable +12/-12 … but it smelled burned,
and the plastic on the transormator melted a bit. So changed the transfo for my previous 2amp one, and that burned the 2amp fuse.
I dont know if having the digital potentiometer attached all the time at the end of the chain could have caused the overheat?
So there must be something wrongish in my board, but not enough to cause bad results at the end of the chain. I know about the pinout of the 7912, the polarity of the electrolytics… im so desperate i think im going to show my museum of horrors.
dont worry about the 2nd 2200 cap thats sideways, that was on purpose so that the thing could fit in a 1U rack space (that one was higher than the other)
Please report any mal practice, any thing i might be doing wrong. this is entirely self taught. and i accept criticism.
For a more “aesthetically pleasing” picture, try this:
Does the trouble start once the PSU is connected to the MBHP_OPL3 module, or did you measure the voltages before doing this?
The +/-12/Ground tracks on the MBHP_OPL3 module can be checked very easily against shorts if you have a multimeter or similar. Just check the resistance between the tracks, or use it as a logic tester (if this mode is available), and check for unexpected “beeps” (=short)
I didnt expect anyone taking the time to look at them.
Does the trouble start once the PSU is connected to the MBHP_OPL3 module, or did you measure the voltages before doing this?
i didnt dare to connect any psu to the MBHP_OLP3 yet. i want to make sure its running fine first
dont want to risk to fry the board.
As i said the voltages look fine with a multimeter at the output stage of the the psu, but the transfo either buzzes and overheats or
(the other one, just makes the 2A fuses blow)
The +/-12/Ground tracks on the MBHP_OPL3 module can be checked very easily against shorts if you have a multimeter or similar. Just check the resistance between the tracks, or use it as a logic tester (if this mode is available), and check for unexpected “beeps” (=short)
Best Regards, Thorsten.
Between the final +12 and ground i get 35K ohm
and between the final -12 and ground i get 16K Ohm
Is that due to the different 2200 uF caps i have? (one 35v and one 50v)
Do you have explicit points and the typical resistance i should get?
Also are we sure that what i connect to my 3 input pins are the 3 cables of the “center tap 12,0,12” transfo, in that same order?
The resistances are ok, the intention of this test was, if you get 0 ohm (-> short) or a high resistance (-> ok)
I don’t know the typical resistance, I never take care for such details, and it differs with the used parts anyhow (as you already noticed)
Also are we sure that what i connect to my 3 input pins are the 3 cables of the “center tap 12,0,12” transfo, in that same order?
The transformer connections you made are still unclear to me, but the problem is, that so many transformers look so different. I cannot really help you here, only motivate to continue with experiments.
E.g., you could doublecheck if the center cable is really the center cable by measuring the voltages between the 3 transformer outputs. The voltage difference between this cable and the outer should be 12V, the voltage difference between the outer cables should be 24V