erm…dont get me wrong but that soldering looks really aweful and you got several bridges at the smd chips and all over the place.That´s very likely the reason that it is not working. I see bridges at pin 8/9 and 13/14 of the OPL. The Chips look like they would “stand” on solder.
Then you got a bridge in front of the nr. 1 pin of the OPL between the third and fourth trace…and so on..
What iron did u use? Small tip and regulated is highly recommended especially when dealing with SMD parts. Its not only that
you get bad and bulky joints but you “burn” the chips using an unregulated iron with a big tip.
What you can do now is “cleaning” the PCB. That means that you get yourself some solder wick and desolder the SMD parts (with a decent iron!) and resolder the obvious bridges. Do that carefully. Dont heat the SMD parts for too long and with to much power. They will fry if they havent already.
I could imagine you already broke the parts but just try it.
Watch this to get an impression how to solder SMD.
erm…dont get me wrong but that soldering looks really aweful and you got several bridges at the smd chips and all over the place.That´s very likely the reason that it is not working. I see bridges at pin 8/9 and 13/14 of the OPL. The Chips look like they would “stand” on solder.
Then you got a bridge in front of the nr. 1 pin of the OPL between the third and fourth trace…and so on..
What iron did u use? Small tip and regulated is highly recommended especially when dealing with SMD parts. Its not only that
you get bad and bulky joints but you “burn” the chips using an unregulated iron with a big tip.
What you can do now is “cleaning” the PCB. That means that you get yourself some solder wick and desolder the SMD parts (with a decent iron!) and resolder the obvious bridges. Do that carefully. Dont heat the SMD parts for too long and with to much power. They will fry if they havent already.
I could imagine you already broke the parts but just try it.
Watch this to get an impression how to solder SMD.
Aren’t you missing some components south of IC6? Best solution would be to just solder the missing parts, i think - all done that way you will also be ready for an extra YAC if you find one at some point. It’s not like it will be very expensive or anything
The missing components (C14, C19, C13, R13, R10, R12, R15, C25, C26, C29, R11, R14, C33, R20, R21, R22, R23, C34, R3, C11, C22, C21, C12, C30) are only relevant for the second YAC (see http://ucapps.de/mbhp_opl3.html). Leaving them out will not cause any problems.
Make sure to check for bridges further away from the SMD chips as well - better to be on the safe side
If you’re positive that you don’t have any bridges, remove the opamps and see if you get an audio signal @ IC3:10 and IC3:14. That’ll help to tell us if the problem occurs before or after the opamps.
I had problems with the YAC. I am still not sure if it was the chips I got or my Surface mount soldering. Those little bastards are finicky. I was super meticulous with the second set I got and Lo and Behold! I Haz FM!
I do know that I had problems with my GM5 and upon closer inspection it looked like it probably could have done with a more thorough soldering job. Unfortunately, when I went to pull him off, a couple of his legs went bye bye. :bye: Poor little guy never had a chance.
Luckily the YACs seem a lot sturdier.
Check pins 21 and 22 on the YMF with a headphones and a resistor or something like that to see if your getting audio out of it.