Thought i showed the progress with the mb6582 so far.
I tested it, it’s making sound but alot of noise. 
uploading patches to bankstick works. Midi controller works. Uploading MIOS to pic works.
I’m still missing some caps at the top, is it possible this can be the reason for the noise?
I only use 2 sids cause those are completly finished.
Parts are ordered. to finish the print.
Why is the audio cable plugged into Sid 4, and not Sid 1? ???
Edit: Or is it just lying under that socket and only looks like its plugged in?
Hmm, this socket plays sid 1 
Hmm, this socket plays sid 1
Did you try connecting it into the opposite socket just to see if it was clearer?
According to the Base PCB PDF you should be plugging it into that one:
http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/_media/mb-6582:mb-6582_base_pcb.pdf?id=wilba_mb_6582&cache=cache
Follow the track lines from the 2 far right sid modules, aka U1_Sid1, and U2_Sid1…
and theyre clearly going into that socket.
yes, i checked the pcb layout and youre correct, but the layout we received is a bit different then the one on the wiki. I can’t imagine that has changed. But that still doesn’t explain why the sound from my sid1 is coming out this socket. Hmm strange. If i connect to the other socket i don’t hear anything. :-\
It looks like you are not using switched stereo sockets.
The PCB was changed in this section but only to add tracks to join up the stereo sockets (via resistors) into a passive mixer.
i.e. with switched stereo sockets installed, it will mix the output of those sockets without plugs in them.
How that works is when a plug is in a socket, the signals go from the pins on the left (looking at the PCB) to the plug, via the contacts above the plug. When the plug is out of the socket, the contacts above the plug touch the contacts connected to the pins on the right (looking at the PCB).
So… if you’re not using switched stereo sockets, or the pins are different to what the PCB expects, some wierdness might happen… like what you’re experiencing.
I don’t think you’re using stereo sockets from SmashTV, so please describe what you are using.
Do they have six pins on the bottom?
Do the contacts that touch the plug at the top connect to the left or right side pins (looking at the socket with hole at 12 o’clock)? They look like they connect to the right side, which is where it connects up to the mixer.
I can give you a workaround/fix after you confirm the part is not what the PCB expects… basically you can take out the passive mixer resistors and then just bridge across the pins on the base.
I don’t have a datasheet for the jacks i use. But i have taken some pictures maybe you can see if they are the wrong ones.
Greetz
If I’m not too confused atm I’d says your sockets are the wrong way round, i.e.the “switching” part is on the wrong side.
OK they are definitely different, the contacts with the plug go out to the opposite side to the “right” sockets.
The “quick fix”:
Take out the two 10K resistors just below each socket. These are used to mix each channel with the others when there is no plug in the socket. It’s no great loss.
Carefully solder some insulated wire between the three pairs of pins, i.e. the wires will be bridging between the left and right sides of the socket. Do this for all four sockets.
Now you should have sound coming out the right socket!
got same problem once.
just pull the metallic parts out of the plastic body (upwards), and reinsert them mirrored. done.
I tried to get the pens out but that is not possible. I will try Wilba method. Is the connection for the headphone still working after that?
I never would have thought you can switch from the wrong side.
I’m assuming the left side, when look at the board from the front, is the side that should make contact with the jack?
I tried to get the pens out but that is not possible. I will try Wilba method. Is the connection for the headphone still working after that?
No… to get the passive mixer/headphone connection working, you’ll need to do some track cutting and different wiring.
The “quick fix” I suggest will get it working and you can do a better solution later, just remember to take out those resistors!
Wilba, youre the greatest. 8)
I did what you told me, and now it sounds beautifull without any noise and weird stuff going on.
Thanks for the help. Now to continue the process to a complete mb-6582
Greetz
I should probably post a warning in the parts list about this.
Can you tell me where you got your “wrong” sockets (link if possible, or site/part number) and I’ll mention not to get them. 
Maybe also take photos from above and below to show what to do to fix the problem.
Sorry it took so long for a update. I was so happy i could make sound with the SID i totaly forgot to update the post. But here is the update.
I ordered the parts at radio rotor amsterdam BV, www.rotor.eu
The part number is:400111 (6.3 MM CHASSISDEEL STEREO GEISOL.+ SCHAK)
Here are the pictures of the workaround, i only did the first audio output.
On one picture you can see i removed the resistors and the other picture you can see the wires.
Greetz and thanks for workaround
Is any information on the right audio socket available? Datasheet? Should the they mount flat against the pcb to fit the back panel och should they level 5mm above as the solder lug style audio sockets do?
After I built the prototype, SmashTV found the right socket from Neutrik and used these in kits and I have been using them ever since without thinking they weren’t a standard, easily available part.
I am pretty sure they are this one:
http://www.neutrik.com/fl/en/audio/210_301451/NMJ6HFD2_detail.aspx
… but I don’t really know the exact part number. I’ll get him to confirm.
After I built the prototype, SmashTV found the right socket from Neutrik and used these in kits (and I have been using them ever since).
I am pretty sure they are this one:
http://www.neutrik.com/fl/en/audio/210_301451/NMJ6HFD2_detail.aspx
… but I don’t really know the exact part number. I’ll get him to confirm.
Thanks
Is any information on the right audio socket available? Datasheet? Should the they mount flat against the pcb to fit the back panel och should they level 5mm above as the solder lug style audio sockets do?
They should mount flat to the PCB, and the flat part where the threaded part starts should also align with the PCB edge, since the PCB edge should touch the back panel (ideally, but if there’s a tiny gap between the PCB and the back panel then it’s not that bad).
