First CORE and SID module: parts questions

MIDIbox SID
1

I’m trying to figure out what to order so I Can build my first CORE and a SID module or two.  I’m starting out with the SmashTV kits, but there are some important details:

Banksticks:  Does any 512 model work, or does it have to be 24LC512?  If so, I’ll order from the USA retailers.  From the Bankstick page:

Availability

24C256, Part #ST 24C256 BN6 at Reichelt for EUR 1.20 (the part number implies that this is an EEPROM from ST, but since 2004 they deliver an Atmel device with CS (chip select) inputs

24LC256-I/P, Part #150234-14 at Conrad for around EUR 2.80

24LC256-E/P-ND at Digikey for around US $2.40

579-24LC256-I/P at Mouser for around US $1.70

LCD screen: Do I need to know any other details besides “2x20”?  Module size, voltage, etc?

CORE PIC header:  I don’t even know what this is.  The default option in the kit is 0000 0000 0000 0000

PIC Microcontroller:  Should I get this?  I’m assuming I get PIC18F4685.  Again, which header?

Power Supply: I have two Commodore 64 PSU that output 9V.  I’m using SIDs version 6582.  This part of SmashTV’s notes for the SID module confuses me.  Can I request that he replaces the parts in the kit with the parts that I need?

Note 3: The C64’s in the grey surface may contain a newer SID (8580) which has to be

        supplied with 9V instead of 12V — in this case you have to use a 7809 instead of 7812!!!

        And you have to replace the C1/C2 caps (470pF) by 6,8nF caps!

(the small description under the SID module kit says “Includes regulators and filter capacitors for both SID chip versions” but the ones I need are not listed in the parts list.)

Note 4: Audio Plugs not listed here - 2 are necessary, for Audio In and Out

These “audio plugs” are just 1/4" phono jacks, right?  Like the kind used in guitars and amps?

Note 5: 15V/100 mA transformer not listed here

Do I need this?  Are there any more specifics to it?

Thanks for the help!  I’ve read all the pages on this stuff, and I’m up to page 18 on the forum, but I’m only comprehending a tiny bit of it.  I really need some parts and directions in front of me so I can grasp what I’m reading about.

2

Welcome aboard pingosimon! :smiley:

Banksticks:  Does any 512 model work, or does it have to be 24LC512?

Why don’t you just order them from smash as well?

LCD screen: Do I need to know any other details besides “2x20”?  Module size, voltage, etc?

Yes, you do. What module size is good obviously depends on what you want to do with it. Voltage - make sure it doesn’t need a negative voltage for the backlight. It should have an HD44780 compatible controller (most do).

CORE PIC header:  I don’t even know what this is.  The default option in the kit is 0000 0000 0000 0000

The header is a constant that is written into the memory of the pic processor. It’s mostly important for applications that use mutliple core modules. You want the default one.

PIC Microcontroller:  Should I get this?  I’m assuming I get PIC18F4685.  Again, which header?

Header - see above. Yes you should get this. Cause without a processor you won’t have much fun :wink:

Power Supply: I have two Commodore 64 PSU that output 9V.  I’m using SIDs version 6582.  This part of SmashTV’s notes for the SID module confuses me.  Can I request that he replaces the parts in the kit with the parts that I need?

No you can’t, simply cause they’re already there. The kit comes with parts for both types of SIDs.

These “audio plugs” are just 1/4" phono jacks, right?  Like the kind used in guitars and amps?

Whichever type you wanna use. 1/4" trs will work just fine. The board has pads you can use for RCA (cinch) sockets as well.

3

hi, about that sid part question this confused me aswell.

the 6582 model needs same specs as 8580 model… i took some time before my head got that.

4

Cool, I feel almost ready to order these things, thanks a lot!

What about this, though?  It’s from the SID module description page on SmashTV’s site.

Do I need this?  Are there any more specifics to it?

LCD:  I’m considering http://www.eio.com/p-938-orient-display-amc2002c-b-y6wfdy-2x20-character-lcd.aspx or http://www.eio.com/p-937-orient-display-amc2002c-b-g6wfdw-2x20-character-lcd.aspx.  Can someone confirm that it doesn’t have a negative voltage for the back light?  Here is the specs for those:

http://www.eio.com/admin/images/Downloads/AMC2002C.pdf

Section 5 confirms that it doesn’t, right?

Do I need a ribbon cable to hook up the LCD?

Now I’m stuck on the minimal control surface.  Here’s as much detail as I can find just reading around:

It consists of a 2x20 LCD, 9 buttons and one rotary encoder, accordingly 11 digital inputs of a MBHP_DIN module are required

What kind of buttons?

Are the potentiometers at SmashTV considered “rotary encoders?”  If not, does this work? http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=318-ENC160F-24P

5

Not to be unfriendly, but all of these questions could be answered with very little research on your part. Part of building a project like this is learning these things, and if you can’t be bothered with learning what a potentiometer is or what an encoder is, then maybe this isn’t the project for you. The people here are a great resource if you run into real problems, but you shouldn’t be asking them if a potentiometer and an encoder are the same thing. It comes across as lazy, and as though you think your time is much more valuable than theirs. Get on Wikipedia at the very least.

Again, I’m really not trying to be unfriendly, but people new to electronics sometimes think that it’s all extremely complicated and difficult to learn about, and it’s not. While it’s easier to just ask others to do all the work for you, you don’t really learn anything that way, and the fact is that it’s extremely easy to find this info. While PICs and SIDs aren’t used in every electronic device in your house, the rest of the parts and concepts are, so don’t think that you need to learn all that stuff here. Look around.

Also, any problems you run into have probably already happened to someone else, so search these forums before you ask, and you may just find a ten-page detailed solution to it.

Good luck!

6

I’m trying!  I’ve spent hours reading ucapps, the guides and FAQs, and these very forums, but I still have questions.  I am trying my best to look things up, and not come across as demanding.

I guess I could have easily found out that a potentiometer is not a rotary encoder, but I still need to know if that rotary encoder I linked to will work for the minimal control surface.  So far, the control surface has been the hardest thing to research, because of lack of detail in the guides.  (“9 Buttons?”  Really?)

7

Fair enough. I hope you understood my meaning, it’s pretty common to see the laziness I was talking about, and I really am not someone who would rip someone a new one anyway. I was trying to be helpful in the long run.

Remember that Wilba’s MB-6582 is pretty much the same thing as 4 cores + 2 SID modules per core, plus all the DINs, DOUTs, etc. involved, so all control surface parts listed there work for a basic MB SID.

15x Rotary Encoders. They are the ones that Voti sell http://www.voti.nl/winkel/p/SW-ROT.html ’ date=’ but I didn’t get them from Voti, I got them direct from Electronics China, part number R162EC-BD1-24C Datasheet which have shaft length 20mm (L=20mm) and overall height of 26.5mm. If you look closely on the PCB, you’ll see there’s provision for smaller encoders with a different pinout, but they might not be the right height. The ones I use can be pulled apart and the detent removed, but leave the menu encoder detented for better handling of menus, patch changes etc. Other builders confirm that an “Alpha†brand rotary encoder (Mouser part 318-ENC160F-24P) is identical.

Obviously, you don’t necessarily need 20mm ones, because those are the dimensions to fit his project with a PT-10 case. Look on his Control Surface Parts List for more information on parts for a control surface.

8

Alright, I ordered the kits, some MIDI jacks, some ribbon cable, and I’m trying to order an LCD screen.  I’ll worry about the control surface later.  Let’s see how this goes!

9

For the LCD, may I recommend this or this? They’re not the latest models, but you can’t beat the price.

10

hmm those look cool, but I think I’d much rather go with a 2x20 for now, since that’s what the guides are written for..  I’m trying to avoid all possible confusion here for these first steps.

11

http://www.ucapps.de/midibox_sid_manual_fp.html

http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp_lcd.html

http://www.crystalfontz.com/product/CFAH2004AGGHJP.html

http://www.crystalfontz.com/product/CFAH2004ATMIJP.html

I like the format of the 4x20 best. You can choose whichever format you like, you don’t have to stick with what is shown in the examples. Just make sure the controller is supported, which it is on the 2 LCDs I showed you. Part of building it yourself is customizing it for yourself. Choose whichever one you like best.

12

Woohoo, my order finally arrived!  I also just ordered two LCD screens:

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=LCM-S02002DSRvirtualkey69600000virtualkey696-LCM-S02002DSR

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=NHD-0220GZ-FSW-GBW-Lvirtualkey66010000virtualkey763-0220GZ-FSW-GBW

Now to go buy a couple tools and some good solder.