Aha!! That could be why the datawheel on my old Digitech GSP2101 is jumping erratically… very useful piece of info.
Thank you
I’m too lazy to open up the case once again, I’m not sure what encoder my device has. But I’m pretty sure it’s built from a complete kit, so whatever those were using?
OTOH I have been only recently taken this out for a test drive, and it seems today after some tweaking it’s better (in the past it was really unusable), so maybe it’s just a problem with non-use from the previous user and me? I will see about this…
I also have this issue with my sammichSID I just built from the latest batch. I don’t know what encoder it uses. It’s still not unusable, but it would be great if this was fixable. Luckily there is only one encoder on the Sammich.
I have just finished building my MB6582 and my non-detented Bourns PEC16-4020F-N0024 encoders are giving me these issues (wish I’d found this thread before!)
I don’t really want to resolder all 14 of the encoders. From what I understand the latest version of the MB6582 firmware has some sort of debouncing built in, so there doesn’t seem to be a simple software fix available.
Has anyone had any luck using capacitors to debounce them?
Hi lifeglug,
Would be great if you could fix it electronically but I highly doubt that you’ll get a common fix across the batch that could fix it for all encoders equally. In my case desoldering was the only way and what I should have done from the beginning. I spent too long on “what if” and “how come” scenarios. I’ve since built a second mb6582 and had no problems at all. It’s sucks but it’s the luck of the draw sometimes. Pick your worst and just desolder that one. That will prove the fix, 14 sounds like a lot of desoldering but like anything if you take your time you can be successful. The feeling of getting it fixed almost makes it worthwhile!
Cheers,
Arkay.
yep I was thinking this might be the case. Luckily I didn’t solder the support tabs on the encoders so that will save me some time.
Thanks
You’re laughing then. The encoders are likely bunk anyway so you don’t need to not destroy them. It’s easy to cut the legs and desolder the remainder if the structural tabs aren’t soldered. Clean up the holes with braid. And you’ll be done in no time. Then you’ll have a properly working instrument you can be proud of and use for the purpose intended. Can see only good things coming from the decision 
Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
Cheers,
Arkay
Hi - About to start my CS board and looking at the instructions again…where did everyone land with the encoders now that it’s been a number of years?
- Are the Bourns (https://mou.sr/41UDhud) or the Alphas (https://mou.sr/4ioDwop) the preferred solution? Seems like the Bourns could be hit or miss but the alphas are reliably ‘no bounce’?
- I ask because Wilba on his page says in an ‘update’ that Bourns are the ones he recommends, but that page hasn’t been modified since 2010
- Still prefer to de-detent 14 of the 15 encoders? I know that was optional just curious how people have gotten along with them.
Copying product URLs for Mouser kept giving me 404 errors, so I had to use the short ‘share’ links they provide sorry about that.
Thank you!
Hi Niles,
I still have original mb6582 encoders, bulk ordered and sent by Wilba. Working perfectly! Would you like some?
Best
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That is very kind of you to offer. I actually already have some…I ordered the Bourns a few years ago (just now getting to this project), and I’m curious if they are the kind you’re using? There doesn’t appear to be any marking on it, but I attached a picture of them. Just curious if maybe I should get a different type before I solder them in.Thank you!
Hmm..I’m leaning towards not removing the detents since 1) I do not want to risk ruining them or making them crappy, and 2) I like things with a little resistance and I heard removing them can make them super slick. I am not that concerned with resolution, as I understand it takes multiple full turns to reach limits as opposed to a pot.
Thanks again