Completely lost - Please help

Design Concepts
1

Hello,

I’ve read through the website, and the wiki, and I’m still having trouble grasping exactly what I need to do/buy in order to get going.

I basically want to build a midi controller similar to the FaderFox LX1. I’m located in Denver, Colorado, USA, and I have no prior knowledge of circuitry. But I am a fast learner. I’ve picked up 3 books on basic circuits at my library, as well as a comprehensive guide to midi.

Can someone point my in the right direction?

I can buy all the buttons and wireing that I’ll need at RadioShack (I think). I’m good with powertools, so I’m going to design my own project box. However, I’m a little confused about PCB. RadioShack carries blank PCB and the chemicals needed to make them. But do I really need to? They also have boards that are perferated with a bunch of tiny holes. I think it would be easier to hook everything up with that type of board right? I’m totally ignorant to this type of stuff, so any advice would be much appreciated.

So, for my project needs, which is basically just a 64 button midi controller, where should I look for information. I need to come up with a parts list, as well as instructions.

Thanks for your help. :slight_smile:

2

Decepto,

I’m trying to help out with simple stuff these days if I can, but I’m late as hell getting out right now, so if nobody chimes in, I’ll do what I can later tonight. :wink:

You shouldn’t need to etch boards. SmashTV has them all pre-done. You’ll probably just need D.In’s for buttons (32 to a module), but you probably want lights too (D.Out boards). They should all chain together via standard ribbons. I’d guess the hardest wiring would be an LCD, which you will probably need for something.

I may have a pre-assembled Core here if you want it. It can probably fit in a mailer bag (I’m in VA). I’m thinking about re-doing a Core with a different LCD pinning and maybe some headers and layout more appropriate for my new box, and I’ve got two regular ones here already.

I wouldn’t go to RS for much, other than maybe ferric chloride if you need it. I used to get momentarys and stuff there all the time, and they were like 2or3 bucks a button, didn’t look that great, and had a stiff feel which required too much pressure. you’d spend a fortune. Go to eBay and get a bulk of something cool instead from the electronic components section.

Take Care,

George (later than he was a minute ago)

3

Thanks for the help.

I can think of a pretty extravagant  deisgn for what I would ideally want. But I really just want to keep it down to Midi out, 64 buttons, and a power supply. If it’s not to much work to include some sort of lighting so that could see the buttons, that would be nice.

Ideally, I would like to add a cross fader, but I’m not sure how much more work that would require.

I’d like to purchase that pre assembled core from you. Do you accept paypal?

As far as parts are concerned, I would need 4 DIN and a Midi Jack (which I can get from SmashTV). But what about power supply? Is there a special place to order that?

Buttons are of another concern. I’m not looking for on/off buttons. I looking more of a videogame style button where you just hit it or push it and thats it. Not one that you push in, then push again to get back out.

What about buttons from old video game controllers? Is it possible to wire those to a DIN some how?

4

Hey again, (back home now)

I should have specified that you can have the core. PM me with the address details and I can try to see if it fits in a padded mail bag or box, just give me a few days. I’m not sure about having a spare PIC however. The only thing I think I have extra right now ‘might’ be an old one (16f), which has some minor circuit changes. If you need to order anything from Smash or anyone, they should probably have those too.

Yeah, the buttons I was talking about are the same ones you mean (single pole/single throw, normally open). Each button just pulls one of the D.In’s IC pins to ground when you press it in, so there’s one lead per switch and a common line you can link across the second pin on all of them to ground. Those RS ones are just better (IMHO) where you won’t mind pressing them a bit hard, like a reset or power button on your computer. For a controller or something, a light quick tap might be more comfortable. The game buttons you describe would work, but they’re pretty big. I’m holding a box of them here for a MAME machine. They actually have a rectangular “leaf” type switch in a box that locks onto the bottom of the main housing. Someone in the Cubase forums built a small transport controller out of them. If you’re trying to do a massive amount of buttons, you may be better with a batch of nice looking pushbutton switches from eBay like I mentioned, or even a big pile of tactile switches with colored caps from one of the mail order electronics places.

The lights I referred to would actually be indicators mapped to your program just like the switches, or linked to the buttons via software. Good to have, especially for mute/solo/rec status stuff. You can get lighted switches, but they’re usually not too cheap.

If you do faders or knobs, you might need an A.In module, but I think you can run up to eight directly from the PIC (I’ve always had at least one A.In IC, even when I probably didn’t need it).

The core itself has part of the power supply and seems pretty flexible on the incoming requirement. It has a regulator/rectifier/filter circuit to get a clean 5V to the chips. Mine is running on a standard 9VAC adapter, maybe in the <1A range. There are two pins on the core which you’ll bring your power feed in with via whatever connector you can rig up. MIDI is the same deal. The core has the optocoupler,diodes,etc., and you’ve got a pin header to take a few lines to a pair of 5 pin females or even directly to the cables I guess. Everyone here pretty much agrees that the LCD will come into play at some point at least. If your box doesn’t need one, it may still help in configuring it. That can usually use a standard small dual row ribbon, but you’ll have to check the pins before you use it and maybe switch some leads around on the ribbon.

                                                                -Take Care

George  Â