4 minutes ago, tago said:
Thanks for your input
I anticipate the distances between LEDs/Btns etc. will be too large. So i’m leaning towards direct connection via DIN/DOUT modules.
It creates more wiring work/mess and potential for mistakes, but can be simpler to address individual elements. With the NG if you have a missing/swapped connection, it should be quite simple to identify and fix.
4 minutes ago, tago said:
Unfortunately i’ve no idea what do you mean by this. For the LEDs i’d have 220ohms resistors on the DOUT modules. Is this what you’re referring to? Do i need something like that with that many LEDs?
It doesn’t matter if you go for single wiring, because you’re addressing individual LEDs, with the DOUT pin via a resistor to the anode, and the cathode tied to ground.
However, when using a matrix, you want a constant current sink on the cathode side, so you bridge the resistors only on that DOUT section with wire. Otherwise, your total series resistance is ~440 ohm at a duty cycle of 0.125, and this will lead to dim LEDs! The other method is to connect the sink side resistors to the base of NPN transistors (collector to LED cathodes, emitter to ground/0V), or you could consider the ULN2803 octal Darlington driver. (The latest rev DOUT boards from SmashTV can fit sink or source driver chips directly on the PCB.)
4 minutes ago, tago said:
My current thinking is that i would need to power the core via a dedicated power supply (20mA * 100 = 2A max for LEDs alone).
For red/yellow/yellow-green LEDs with Vf ~2V, your consumption is approximately (5-2)/220 = 13.6mA for each LED. Don’t forget the OLEDs can have reasonable consumption too.
4 minutes ago, tago said:
I hope too
It’s a slow process because i’m a beginner.
Keep at it, you’ll get there eventually!