I would like to share with you my ideas for my own Traktor MIDI controller. Also I have some questions that I didn’t find on the forum.
Here is the design:
And the block scheme:
Just to make sure, for the AINX2 module I have to ground the J5[A2…A7] on the core module and other unused PIC pins leave unconnected?
I’m thinking of making the controller on a single PCB. Could I have some problems when installing it in the custom housing? Are the modules a better solution?
Is it necessary to have the digital and the analog ground in the schematics or a single ground will do it?
There’s something weird with the attached images, can’t seem to enlarge them… (Or my browser is having a friday fit. ;))
The advantage of using the existing modules is that you can get kits from Mike or SmashTV, and those are tested and proven to work designs. Rolling your own PCB requires good circuit design skills, but I assume you have those from your post?
If you want to get started quickly with the Midibox platform, I’d use modules to get things off the ground. You can always design your own PCB later.
I second that (both the inability to enlarge the images AND the suggestion to use existing boards). You can also make a smaller board later, once you have everything working. That way you have also had time to work out the bugs and figure out how things work on a deeper level before jumping into a printed board. That, and boards can be expensive, though they are fun to design I’ll give you that one!
I was intending to make my own PCBs, either a single PCB or modules, because I have the knowledge and it wouldn’t be the first time for me to make a PCB design. Buying a premade printed board would kill all the fun
Also I didn’t go for the multichanel, multieffect, scratch mixer because I think that a simple design like this is ideal for a start. It has all the basic controls and later on, when I figure out how things work on a higher level, I can make a better mixer. Altough I think I have understood the most of the circuit design. I just want somebody to confirm the connection of the PIC and the AINX2 module, and is it necessary to have a digital and the analog ground level or is one GND ok?
If you want to get started quickly with the Midibox platform…
For me the time isn’t crucial, it’s the good design, which is suited for my needs, that counts!
I just want somebody to confirm the connection of the PIC and the AINX2 module, and is it necessary to have a digital and the analog ground level or is one GND ok?
Just one ground will do. Be sure to grab a linear PSU (not switchmode) to avoid noise messing with the AINs though.
As for the AINs, yeh, ground any analog input that is not in use. AUAIMBCTG is the term we use (although I get the feeling that you’ve done your research and you know thins already hehe)
I hope I will find a linear PSU in the local stores, if not which would you recommend?
It’s a bit of a voodoo subject. You might be fine with a switchmode PSU, and you might need to add some extra filtering. I’m sure you’ll have no problem finding a linear PSU.
As for the AUAIMBCTG and similar terms you’ll have to forgive me because I’m still getting into it
Nothing to forgive. I thought I’d mention the bizarre (and hence highly visible) acronym for you to search with, if you wanted more info.
BTW I’m sorry if I ask questions that are already answered on the forum.
Ok, back to the project after some exams I’ve had.
I was thinking about the front panel and the way how to make a sleek design. An idea that has come to my mind was illuminated panel.
After some searching on the forum I saw that Sasha has already made something similar:
I was thinking of putting handcut stickers, painting the panel with a black spray paint and afterward peel the stickers off so I get the desired signs that would be illuminated by LEDs. But Sasha (the genius) posted that laser engraving would be much easier and more precise.
I’m not sure is the spray paint ok for the job or I’ll have to get some special paint for the plexyglass? What is the best plexyglass panel thickness or is that irrelevant?
I was also thinking to have white illumination around the knob but when the knob is turned more then 80% illumination would become red. I’m just not sure how many LEDs would be enough to satisfactory illuminate the knob surroundings ?
FYI I have tried the sticker-stencil method. I used an old dotmatrix printer hacked up with no ink, so that the print head pin was actually perforating the sticker (and the roller as I discovered afterwards, oops!). Works well, good accuracy, much cheaper than laser (unless you’re sasha) . However, You should keep in mind that your can control is pivotal in such things. If you put down a layer of paint which is thicker than the sticker, you’re boned - the paint holds the sticker on, and removing it removes the paint. The trick is to make VERY light coats, and layer them up until they reach the required height. Take the can back about 1.5 feet, and wipe over it as fast as your arm can move, just to put down a ‘mist’ of paint. Too little just means it needs another coat when it’s dry. Too much means you’re boned.
Anyway, that’s better for painting small areas like indexes and panel lines (like on MB6582) and not so hot for painting everything except a small area (a mask like what you want) If you’re doing that, what you want to do, is to glue a small ‘handle’ onto the sticker before you place it, so that you have a way to remove the sticker after you paint up to it’s edges.
Another handy hint, is to use stickers with a ‘gummy’ kind of glue. You need to remove it slowly so that it leaves no residue, but it allows you to do a little trick. When the paint is near-dry, you can give the sticker a tiny ‘wiggle’ (just push down on it and twist a bit), which breaks the ‘tack’ on the edge of the paint, and makes the sticker easier to remove.
But, if you got the cash, laser CNC is definitely best!
Next week, if I catch the time, I’m going to buy all the components and also give a visit to a advertisement manufactory in the neighborhood and see what the guys can do with the plexi, at what cost and then decide…
But how many LEDs per knob would be enough?
Oh yes, stryd I’m not going to thank you for the info so you don’t ban me
FYI I have tried the sticker-stencil method. I used an old dotmatrix printer hacked up with no ink, so that the print head pin was actually perforating the sticker (and the roller as I discovered afterwards, oops!). Works well, good accuracy, much cheaper than laser (unless you’re sasha) .
Hahah, that is a cool trick. I love it! Is it common technique for stencils or you invented it? Have you got some pictures?
For panel illuminated you better search the ebay for some low profile wide angle super-bright LEDs. I get some very good low profile 5mm LEDs from China. Here is how it looks:
To illuminate your ableton style circle around the knob you need minimum 3 wide angle LEDs. But, the area of illumination depends also of how far the led is from panel. Thickness of material isn`t very important, but the color is. If you are laser engraving you can use clear acrylic as the laser will diffuse the etched area, but if you are using some transparent film you will need to add some diffusion material under it. I did some tests with various acrylic and I find best is to use non colored icey acrylic as it can be illuminated with any color LED. Here it how it looks:
Of course it helps and any help is appreciated. (Hvala Saša!)
My friend told me today there is a plexyglass workshop that I could check out so I’m going there this week to see what they offer.
If three LEDs per knob are needed most probably I’ll have to put them in series at one 74HC595 pin. Correct me if I’m wrong but I’ll have to change the 220 ohm resistor to 220/3 ohms right???
I can’t not to mention Sashas buttons. They are beautiful.
I was intending to provide some bicolor illuminated rubber buttons but the shiping cost to my destination is to high. So I will probably make, or order, “Sashas buttons”. Btw Sasha, do you accept orders for the buttons?
Of course it helps and any help is appreciated. (Hvala Saša!)
Molim, i drugi put.
I can’t not to mention Sashas buttons. They are beautiful.
Thank you.
I was intending to provide some bicolor illuminated rubber buttons but the shiping cost to my destination is to high.
Which rubber buttons? You wanted to use some commercial gear replacement part like the ones from Electribe or something? I wanted to have rubbery buttons myself for a long time but I as I still don`t have good and cheap screen printing service at hand I rather use laser to cut and engrave custom text on acrylic.
I saw some rubber buttons on Mouser but the problem is that for an order which is worth $50 the shipping charge is $120 since I’m not from EU.
Sasha what is the cost of your wonderful buttons? (I hope the price is wonderful too :P)
Nobody has answered to me do I have to change the value of the resistor (220 ohm) if I connect three LEDs in series on the DOUT module? I’ve finished all the schematics except this part and I can’t go on with the PCB without it.
Check it out and tell me what kind of button would you like and also the size, material thickness and quantity. I might can cut/engrave you the panel too if you need it. You better send me as detailed drawings as possible and I can check with my laserman about the costs.
You should decrease the resistor value to maybe 75R. Do some experimentation. I dont see why you cant continue with schematic as you don`t know resistor value.
Hi guys, I’m not sure but, you may want to check out mouser again, if you haven’t done so recently - They changed their shipping and it was MUCH cheaper from US to AU when I ordered last month,compared to a couple of years ago. A few other guys in the chatroom have mentioned a pleasant surprise when ordering there too. Might be worth a look.
That is potentially great news! I must check it again. Thanks for the info stryd. It happens to me million times that I can find what I need just at Mouser, or most of those strange parts.
(although I get the feeling that you’ve done your research and you know thins already hehe)
